DIY Installation: AirScape 3.0

Installation of the 3.0 is a little more involved than the 1.7, but we’ll take you through the process to show you just how easy it is, and provide the resources you or your contractor need get the job done right.

Important notice for AirScape 3.0 customers

The factory setting for low-speed adjustment may be set incorrectly on some units. Please download this document and check your unit if it seems to not be operating properly.

AirScape 3.0 low-speed adjustment instructions

Overview

The AirScape 3.0 is designed to be easily installed by the average handyman in just a few hours, using simple tools. The basic steps are:

1. choose your location
2. frame the space
3. cut the hole
4. wire the switch (not required with remote)
5. install the damper box & grill
6. hang the fan
7. connect the duct
8. plug it in and adjust low-speed setting

Some installations may require one or more of these additional preparation steps, which can require a little more expertise:

• run an electrical line
• add additional attic venting

In a few cases, there are unusual installation challenges due to building constraints, etc. Simple or complex, we’re happy to provide any support/advice that you or your contractor may require to make sure the installation is a success.

OK, let’s get started!

The basic setup

Tools and supplies required

• Screwdriver
• Drywall cutter (keyhole saw or a Sawzall)
• All-purpose sealant/caulk
• 2-by-X lumber (for framing)
• Mounting screws (included with the unit)
• Three-wire low-voltage cable  (hard-wire switch only)
• Dremmel tool (16-inch joists only)
• Pliers to cut light chain

STEP 1: Choose your location

Choosing the right location is important to getting the best performance out of your AirScape. Here are the guidelines:

• Away from sleeping spaces to minimize noise perception. As quiet as it is, we advise that you be careful when installing the fan in a narrow hallway or close to bedrooms, as sound can seem amplified in the quiet of the night;

• Away from windows that will be opened so cool air is required to travel a long path to the fan, providing maximum benefit;

• At the highest point possible to exploit natural convective action;

• Close to an outlet or power supply to minimize electrical work.

Typically, the ideal location in a two-story home is in the open area at the top of the stairs and as central as you can get it. If you are unsure of where to locate your AirScape, please do contact us.

Also, keep in mind that the 3.0 damper box can be mounted either horizontally (in the ceiling) or vertically (on a wall).

IMPORTANT: Check your attic venting

Nearly all modern houses have attic venting to allow heat and moisture to escape. AirScape whole house fans rely on this existing attic venting to exhaust indoor air, so it is critical that there is enough vented area for air to escape properly and prevent back pressure from building up, which would reduce the effectiveness of your unit.

• the AirScape 3.0 requires at least 6 sq ft of “net free” ventilation area

What this means is that if your attic vents have screening on them (many do) you need more vented area to allow for the same airflow. The following chart can help you determine if your attic has enough ventilation.

STEP 2: Framing

The damper unit is designed to drop in within your existing joists. If your attic has 24-inch O/C joists you simply need to add two cross-members to to create the necessary 22 1/2 by 22 1/2 frame (below left). If you have 16-inch O/C joists, then you’ll need a few additional pieces of lumber to form the frame which straddles on of the joists (below right).

You’ll notice that in installations with 16-inch O/C joists the damper unit straddles a joist that is in the airstream. This is much easier than re-framing and does not significantly impede airflow. The damper unit casing is notched for this purpose (below right).

STEP 3: Cut the hole

Once the framing is in place, mark each corner of your grill opening using nails placed from inside of the attic. Use a straight-edge to mark your lines, and then cut carefully using a key-hole saw or Sawzall.

STEP 4: Wire the switch (not required with wireless remote)

AirScape fans can be controlled either by standard switch or optional wireless remote. The optional wireless remote is pre-installed at the factory and eliminates the need for any installation wiring (other than an available power outlet near the damper box). The standard switch requires fishing a low-voltage wire through the walls and wiring at the unit. You will require a length of 3-wire low-voltage cable 18-gauge or thicker—thermostat wire is acceptable. The cable is not supplied, however the double wall switch is included.

Here’s how to make the connections at the unit:

• remove the low-speed control knob and faceplate to access the control box
• punch out the electrical knockout on the side of the control box
• route wires through the knockout hole and secure according to diagram
• once the connections are made, re-install the faceplate and knob.

Here are some wiring diagrams and installation photos to help:

STEP 5: Install the damper box & grille

There are three parts to this step: mounting and screwing down the damper unti, caulking it in, and installing the grille.

STEP 6. Hang the fan and connect the duct

Choose the location of the fan so as to avoid sharp bends in the duct or contact with metal fixtures, pipes, or conduits. The duct section immediately before the fan should be as straight as possible to ensure smooth airflow to the fan. The duct should be gently bent 90 degrees for maximum sound attenuation.

Cut the supplied chain into three lengths and use one section to hang the fan by one of its eyelets; check for correct duct position. Use the two other sections of chain to secure the fan from any swaying motion (see photo).

STEP 7. Connect the duct

Proper connection of the duct at both ends is essential to the operation of the unit. The connections must be secure and leak-proof.

The duct has a metal collar at one end which is designed to connect to the damper box with sheet metal screws and then sealed with the special supplied tape. The other end of the duct has no collar and is designed to be secured with the included double zip tie and then sealed with special tape.

STEP 8: Apply power and adjust the low-speed setting

Plug the fan into the damper box as shown and plug the damper box into an available 120-volt power outlet. Hard wiring the unit is easily done by removing the service cord. A dedicated circuit for this unit is not required, however the power requirements of 120 volts, 3 amps must be taken into account when allocating power from existing electrical circuits.

Adjust the low speed setting

The 3.0 operates on two-speeds. High speed is set at the factory to deliver just over 3000 CFM and cannot be changed. However, low-speed is easily user-adjustable so that you can strike the perfect balance between airflow and silence that suits your installation and your lifestyle. Most people find that a setting near the high-end of the adjustment band is virtually silent while still allowing high levels of airflow. IMPORTANT: Turning the adjustment knob all the way counter-clockwise past the click-stop will disable the low speed setting entirely.

These instructions are meant to provide an overview of the process. Please refer to the instruction manual provided with the unit upon actual installation for detailed instructions and safety precautions. This document can also be downloaded using the link at the top of this page.