Choose your location

Choosing the right location is important to getting the best performance out of your AirScape. Here are the guidelines:

• Away from sleeping spaces to minimize noise perception. As quiet as it is, we advise that you be careful when installing the fan in a narrow hallway or close to bedrooms, as sound can seem amplified in the quiet of the night
• Away from windows that will be opened so cool air is required to travel a long path to the fan, providing maximum benefit
• At the highest point possible to exploit natural convective action
• Close to an outlet or power supply to minimize electrical work

Typically, the ideal location in a two-story home is in the open area at the top of the stairs and as central as you can get it. Also, keep in mind that the damper box can be mounted either horizontally (in the ceiling) or vertically (on a wall). If you are unsure of where to locate your AirScape, please do contact us.

IMPORTANT: Check your attic venting

Nearly all modern houses have attic venting to allow heat and moisture to escape. AirScape whole house fans rely on this existing attic venting to exhaust indoor air, so it is critical that there is enough vented area for air to escape properly and prevent back pressure from building up, which would reduce the effectiveness of your unit.

The 1.0 WHF requires at least 2 sq ft of net free ventilation area.

The 1.7 WHF requires at least 4 sq ft of net free ventilation area.

What this means is that if your attic vents have screening on them (many do) you need more vented area to allow for the same airflow. learn how to calculate your attic venting

Frame the space

The unit is designed to fit exactly within your existing joists -- either 16-in or 24-in O/C -- eliminating the need for in-depth carpentry. You simply need to add cross-members to existing joists to create the necessary frame (refer to the diagram at right). The inside dimension of this framing should be 14 1/2 by 22 1/2 inches.

If your attic is insulated with loose "blow-in" material, it's a good idea to cover the area around the fan discharge with canvas type material to avoid insulation blowing around.

Elevating the unit

If insulation is filled to a level above the joists, you'll want to build a simple frame to elevate the unit. We call this double-framing, and, in fact, this can be a good idea in any case--if you have the space--as it moves the fan further away living areas. Also, we recommend that you line this frame with _duct board_ (used on the inside of ducts to absorb sound) which will make the unit even quieter.

Cut the hole

Once the framing is in place, mark each corner of your grill opening using nails placed from inside of the attic. Use a straight-edge to mark your lines, and then cut carefully using a key-hole saw or Sawzall.

Wire the switch or remote (or both)

AirScape fans can be controlled by switch or wireless remote; both are low-voltage devices that require similar wiring procedure on the unit. Here's what to do:

• remove the faceplate from the unit-mounted control box
• remove the electrical knockout on the faceplate and install the nylon insert
• route wires through the nylon insert and secure according to diagram
• if you are installing both the remote and the hard-wired switch, keep in mind that whatever turns the unit on must be the same device that turns it off. (that's the only catch)

Once the connections are made, secure the faceplate.

Next, if you are installing the remote, position the module on the faceplate so that it is seated between the mounting guides and pushed completely down on the plate. Finish by installing the retaining bracket by sliding it over the module (being careful not to damage the wires) and inserting the bracket ends into the slots on the faceplate.

If you are installing a switch, run the 3-wire cable for the 24 volt (low-voltage) wiring from the unit to the wall-mounted double switch (included).

Install the unit

There are three parts to this step: installing the gasket, positioning and screwing down the unit, and installing the grille.

PART 1: First place the included foam gasket over the tops of your framing -- this will minimize any minor vibration caused by the fan.

PART 2: Next, place the unit squarely in the framing and screw it down through the pre-drilled tabs using the screws provided. Do not over-tighten mounting screws and crush the foam or it will lose its dampening properties.

PART 3: Carefully line up the grille and screw it through the drywall into the wood framing.

Plug it in!

Plug in the unit to a 120-volt power source. If you need to hard wire the unit, this is easily done by removing the service cord. A dedicated circuit for this unit is not required, however the power requirements of 120 volts, 2 amps must be taken into account when allocating power from existing electrical circuits.